Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Oleate
AKA “Polyglyceryl-20 Ester, Emulsifier
Synthetic
Ingredient Facts
Polyglyceryl-20 docosabehenate/oleate
AKA: Polyglyceryl-20 Ester, Emulsifier
Synthetic · Emollient · EWG: 4
Synthetic
Emollient
Cleanser
Emulsifier
Skin Conditioner
Synthetic
Clean
Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Oleate is the docosaester of Polyglycerin-20 with a mixture of behenic and oleic acids. Science: Functions: Skin Conditioning, Skin Conditioning - Emollient, Surfactant - Cleansing, Surfactant - Emulsifying Safety Ratings: CIR: Safe as used
See origin →
Functions
Emollient
Fills in the tiny cracks between skin cells to make everything feel smooth and soft. The "silky finish" ingredient.
Cleansing
Makes oil and water mix so dirt, makeup, and sunscreen can actually be washed away. The reason your face wash foams.
Emulsifying
Forces oil and water to stay mixed instead of separating into layers. The unsung hero holding your lotion together.
Locks In Moisture
Traditional Use
A modern multi-fatty acid emulsifier combining polyglycerin with docosahexanoic and oleic acids. Developed to create stable, luxurious formulations with enhanced skin-conditioning benefits in premium skincare.
Skin Types
all-skin-types
Best For
General
Melanin-Rich Skin
Suitable
Pregnancy & Breastfeeding Safe
Yes
EWG
4
CIR
Safe w/Qualifications
Pregnancy
Yes
CIR Safety Findings
Not a Sensitizer
medical-approval
all-shades-safe
Regulatory Status
USApermitted
EUrestricted
JAPANrestricted
CANADArestricted
Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers.
Bárány E, Lindberg M, Lodén M
International journal of pharmaceutics, 2000
Unexpected skin barrier influence from nonionic emulsifiers.
Bárány E, Lindberg M, Lodén M
International journal of pharmaceutics, 2000
Polyglyceryl-20 Docosabehenate/Oleate
European Commission
EU Cosmetic Ingredient Database (CosIng)
Effects of silicone emulsifiers on in vitro skin permeation of sunscreens from cosmetic emulsions.
Montenegro L, Paolino D, Puglisi G
Journal of cosmetic science, 2004
Structure and rheology of semisolid o/w creams containing cetyl alcohol/non-ionic surfactant mixed emulsifier and different polymers.
Ribeiro HM, Morais JA, Eccleston GM
International journal of cosmetic science, 2004
Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment.
Vukašinović M, Savić S, Cekić N, Ilić T, Pantelić I et al.
Pharmaceutics, 2023
Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment.
Vukašinović M, Savić S, Cekić N, Ilić T, Pantelić I et al.
Pharmaceutics, 2023
Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment.
Vukašinović M, Savić S, Cekić N, Ilić T, Pantelić I et al.
Pharmaceutics, 2023
Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment.
Vukašinović M, Savić S, Cekić N, Ilić T, Pantelić I et al.
Pharmaceutics, 2023
Efficient Development of Green Emulsifier/Emollient-Based Emulsion Vehicles: From RSM Optimal Experimental Design to Abridged In Vivo Assessment.
Vukašinović M, Savić S, Cekić N, Ilić T, Pantelić I et al.
Pharmaceutics, 2023
Tailoring the Stability of W/O/W Liquid Foundations: A Comparative Study of Polyglycerol-Based W/O Emulsifiers.
Zhu C, Zeng L, Xie Z, Luo G, Chung LH et al.
ACS omega, 2026
Tailoring the Stability of W/O/W Liquid Foundations: A Comparative Study of Polyglycerol-Based W/O Emulsifiers.
Zhu C, Zeng L, Xie Z, Luo G, Chung LH et al.
ACS omega, 2026
Tailoring the Stability of W/O/W Liquid Foundations: A Comparative Study of Polyglycerol-Based W/O Emulsifiers.
Zhu C, Zeng L, Xie Z, Luo G, Chung LH et al.
ACS omega, 2026
Tailoring the Stability of W/O/W Liquid Foundations: A Comparative Study of Polyglycerol-Based W/O Emulsifiers.
Zhu C, Zeng L, Xie Z, Luo G, Chung LH et al.
ACS omega, 2026
Tailoring the Stability of W/O/W Liquid Foundations: A Comparative Study of Polyglycerol-Based W/O Emulsifiers.
Zhu C, Zeng L, Xie Z, Luo G, Chung LH et al.
ACS omega, 2026
Tailoring the Stability of W/O/W Liquid Foundations: A Comparative Study of Polyglycerol-Based W/O Emulsifiers.
Zhu C, Zeng L, Xie Z, Luo G, Chung LH et al.
ACS omega, 2026
Verified Feb 2026
Data: CosIng · EWG · CIR